Cornalin It was unclear for a long time where this local red originated from. It was given the name ‘Cornalin' in 1972, the name of an old vine variety from the Val d'Aoste in the north of Italy. The confusion reached its highest point when it was discovered that the cornalin from Val d'Aoste is in fact no other than the red humagne from the Valais. Recent studies clarified the situation. The cornalin from Valais is a vine variety in its own right in Valais, but its two parents - the mayolet and the little red - come from the neighbouring Val d'Aoste.
According to Claude-Henri Carruzzo, cornalin has been cultivated in Valais for almost a thousand years. "This vine variety existed already in the 6th Century." Later, a deed from 1313 mentions a vine and a red wine located between Granges and Lens: it could well be talking about the now famous local red wine. Authors at the beginning of the century were concerned about the decline in the surface area on which local red vines were planted. In 1952, it was only to be found on the land around Granges and Lens. It was only about thirty years later that it started to reappear. It is now one of the most sought after specialities.
Cornalin is a late vine variety (3rd period). We must therefore reserve the best plots of land for it. Even though it is considered to be vigorous, it nearly disappeared due to its unfortunate tendency to be irregular: a vine can be very productive one year and produce nothing at all the next. Today, this flaw has been partially corrected thanks to a selection process that has been carried out; the rest can be put down to the know-how of the professionals who cultivate the vines. Cornalin has two big weaknesses: it has a tendency to lack magnesium and it is sensitive to rot due a fine film. Once the grapes start to ripen, the leaves get a red and yellow tinge. The bunch of grapes is medium sized and rather compact. The grapes are round, medium sized and bear a blue, black colour.
Cornalin is one of Valais' main vine varieties. When planted on the best plots, and cultivated by a talented viticulturist, the yield is less than one kilo per square metre, it produces a remarkable wine. It is crimson in colour, with beautiful purple reflections. It has a fruity, morello cherry flavour, a remarkable structure with occasional spicy tones and a tannic mass which together make a wine of great quality. In his world of wine encyclopaedia, critic Tom Stevenson says: "Most vines of this local variety are very old and make dark, powerful, rich and concentrated wines with a spicy complexity." A great tribute to this prince of vineyards.
Cornalin has made great progress since wine makers in the Valais have realised its potential. In twelve years, the surface area which is reserved for cornalin plantations has increased five fold. In 1990 it occupied less than 10 hectares as opposed to 37.5 hectares in 2000 and 53.4 in 2002. But this progression, which should continue during the next few years, will be limited because, as mentioned above, it can only be planted on the sunniest hillsides among the best in our vineyards.
This full-bodied slightly rustic red goes marvellously well with dishes from Valais, red meat, game birds but also, depending on how concentrated it is with other game dishes.
